A Scientific Work on Cosmetic Science published in an International Journal

    One of Paolo's earliest experimental scientific works, the subject of his postgraduate MScR thesis in Cosmetic Science and Technology, was the analysis of a medieval cosmetic treatise. This analysis illuminated the efficacy and scientific foundations of remedies that were formulated empirically at the time. Even then, Paolo was combining his scientific scope, in this case, cosmetic science and technology, with his genetic and cultural roots from the Ancient Medical School of Salerno.

"De Ornatu Mulierum": Unveiling Beauty's Ancient Secrets

A Timeless Journey with Trotula De' Ruggiero
In the sun-kissed corridors of Salerno, where the Mediterranean breeze whispered secrets, a remarkable manuscript took shape—a beacon of wisdom that transcended centuries. Meet "De Ornatu Mulierum", penned by none other than Trotula De' Ruggiero, a renowned figure in the field of medicine, who was a pioneering woman in the 12th century who hailed from a wealthy family. She is celebrated as one of the world's first gynecologists and is known for her significant contributions to women's health.

Trotula was an esteemed physician and instructor at the School of Salerno, which was the epicenter of medieval medicine in Europe and recognized for its world-class hospitals. The School of Salerno was unique for its time, as it welcomed women as both students and instructors.
Trotula specialized in obstetrics, gynecology, cosmetics, and skin disease. She authored numerous medical works, with her most famous being "Passionibus Mulierum Curandarum" (The Diseases of Women), also known as Trotula Major. This work, comprised of sixty-three chapters, aimed to educate male physicians about the female body, as their knowledge was limited during that time.
Trotula's radical ideas on conception, which suggested that both men and women could have physiological defects causing conception difficulties, were groundbreaking for her time. She also advocated for the use of plant-derived opiates to alleviate the pain of childbirth, contradicting the prevailing Christian beliefs of her era. This work, which included advice on a range of topics from treating snakebites to lightening freckles, was used for centuries and laid the foundation for modern gynecology. Trotula's legacy continues to inspire and influence the field of women's health today.

As previously mentioned, another of her distinguished contributions is the "De Ornatu Mulierium" (On Women's Cosmetics), alternatively known as Trotula Minor. This work by Trotula serves as an exhaustive manual on feminine beauty, encompassing a plethora of principles, recommendations, and natural treatments. The scope of the treatise is extensive, addressing everything from the art of makeup application and skincare to the preservation of oral health and the management of skin conditions. In its era, Trotula's work was revolutionary, with a clear objective to equip women with the knowledge to not only maintain but also accentuate their beauty, and to manage skin ailments using natural solutions. "De Ornatu Mulierium" stands as a testament to Trotula's pioneering spirit and profound comprehension of women's health and aesthetics. It continues to hold a pivotal place in the annals of cosmetics and dermatology. This work underscores her commitment to empowering women, a legacy that resonates even today.

The First Cosmetic Treatise in History
Imagine a world where cosmetics were more than mere adornments—they were conduits to vitality, health, and inner harmony. Trotula's treatise, a luminous milestone, graced the annals of time as the inaugural cosmetic compendium. Within its pages, a symphony of precepts, advice, and natural remedies unfolded—a roadmap to preserving and enhancing feminine beauty.

Lessons from the Mulieres Salernitanae
Trotula wove her narrative with threads of authority. She invoked the mulieres salernitanae, revered women of Salerno, as her guiding stars. Through her words, she bestowed upon us the art of unwrinkling, the alchemy of blemish concealment, and the delicate dance of skin lightening. But her canvas extended beyond the visage—she delved into the very essence of well-being.

Beyond Skin Deep: A Holistic Approach
In the quietude of her scriptorium, Trotula's quill danced across vellum, revealing secrets that transcended vanity. Her wisdom flowed like a healing stream, touching upon oral hygiene and ocular well-being. Bad breath? Fear not; she prescribed remedies. Teeth yearning for brilliance? Trotula's mechanical marvels, perhaps hewn from marble, held the key. And then, the ancient peeling—an elixir for post-pregnancy acne—harnessing the pungency of onions, akin to alchemical magic.

Beauty as Cosmic Harmony
Trotula's vision reached beyond the corporeal. To her, beauty was more than skin—it resonated with the very pulse of the universe. A healthy body, she posited, mirrored cosmic equilibrium. Her medical art, steeped in philosophy, wove a tapestry where beauty danced with the stars.

A Legacy Illuminated
As we trace the contours of "De Ornatu Mulierum," we glimpse not just a bygone era, but a timeless truth: Beauty is a symphony of body, soul, and nature. Trotula's legacy echoes through the ages, reminding us that within every ointment, every whispered remedy, lies a thread connecting us to the cosmos.

The Science Within the Layers
In the sun-dreched gardens of antiquity, where herbs whispered secrets to the wind, Trotula De' Ruggiero unveiled a hidden gem: the onion. Beyond its culinary allure, this unassuming bulb harbored age-defying magic.
Peel back the onion's layers, and you'll find a symphony of life-giving elements. Water, the elixir of existence, flowed abundantly— 90% of the onion's essence. Proteins, like silent sentinels, stood guard at 1.5%. And vitamins danced— a trio of B1, B2, and C —nourishing skin and spirit. But there was more: potassium, the silent conductor orchestrating cellular harmony.
Within the onion's papery folds, polysaccharides wove intricate spells, binding moisture to skin. Peptides, like ancient troubadours, sang of renewal. And flavonoids, painted in hues of resilience, shielded against time's relentless march. But there was a secret ingredient—an essential oil, fragrant and elusive, cradling the promise of youth.
Hidden within the onion's pungency, prostaglandins waged a quiet war against inflammation. Their battle cry? Anti-aging. Trotula, with her ink-stained quill, chronicled their deeds—a testament to the onion's healing legacy.

Virginity and Astringent Agents
Beyond beauty, Trotula's wisdom touched the delicate fabric of womanhood. She whispered to maidens, revealing the art of giving back the virginity: astringent agents and crimson dyes, woven into rituals, whispered tales of purity. The world, she knew, judged by hues and tints.

A Time Capsule of Aesthetics
Trotula's parchment, inked with care, transcends epochs. In her words, we glimpse the mirror of time. Hair growth, baldness, melasma, and wrinkles — troubles that echo across centuries. Yet, cellulite, that modern specter, remained veiled—a testament to shifting ideals of beauty.

Norman Girls and Arabian Secrets
The Middle Ages spun their own tapestry of allure. While fairy-haired Norman maidens danced in folklore, Trotula's quill dipped into darkening potions. Arabian whispers crept through her pages, revealing secrets of kohl-rimmed eyes and henna-stained hands. The Schola Medica Salernitana, custodian of Mediterranean wisdom, held the keys.

Where Beauty Meets Eternity
As we trace Trotula's legacy, we glimpse more than remedies; we glimpse the alchemy of existence. Beauty, she believed, mirrored cosmic harmony—a dance of body, soul, and stars. And so, in the onion's tear-streaked layers, she left us a timeless truth: Beauty transcends time, and wisdom blooms in every petal.

            Trotula's Legacy Unveiled: Crafting an Ancient Recipe. The timeless steps for crafting an ancient herbal oil, unlocking the secrets of luxurious hair care from centuries past. Here, the alchemy of Trotula's wisdom dances—a bridge between past and present.

See also

Tracing the Roots: The Medical School of Salerno

The Gardens of Minerva

Regimen Sanitatis Salernitanum

Academic works.

History, Seminars, Scientific Publications, Volunteers and Honors...

Reference

Paolo Cavallo, Maria Chiara Proto, Cataldo Patruno, Antonio Del Sorbo and Maurizio Bifulco.

THE FIRST COSMETIC TREATISE OF HISTORY. A FEMALE POINT OF VIEW.

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008 Apr;30(2):79-86.